Three Ways to Dry Flowers at Home

The dried flower has had a remarkable rehabilitation in British interiors over the past decade. Once associated with dusty seventies arrangements in autumnal oranges and browns, it has been reimagined by a new generation of florists and interior designers as something genuinely beautiful: pale, bleached pampas grass; everlasting flowers in dusty rose and cream; papery lunaria seed heads; preserved eucalyptus with its chalky silver-green tones. Understanding which drying method suits which flower is the first step in creating dried arrangements that are beautiful rather than merely preserved.

Method one: air drying

Air drying is the simplest and most widely applicable method. Tie small bunches of stems together and hang them upside down in a dry, warm, well-ventilated space away from direct sunlight. The upside-down position prevents the stems from drooping as they dry and encourages the petals to retain their form. Flowers suited to air drying include lavender, statice, larkspur, strawflower, nigella, globe amaranth, bunny tail grass, and pampas grass. The drying time varies from one to three weeks depending on the density of the flower and the humidity of the environment.

Method two: silica gel drying

Silica gel drying produces the most colour-accurate and form-accurate dried flowers of any method. The silica crystals, which can be purchased from craft suppliers, absorb moisture rapidly and gently, preserving the flower in close to its fresh state. Place a layer of silica gel in a sealed container, lay the flower face-up on the surface, and carefully cover with more gel until the flower is completely buried. Seal the container and leave for three to seven days. Roses, peonies, dahlias, and zinnias all dry beautifully by this method, retaining their colour and form with remarkable fidelity.

“A dried flower is not a dead flower. It is a flower that has agreed to stay.”

Method three: glycerine preservation

Glycerine preservation produces supple, long-lasting preserved foliage and flowers rather than brittle dried material. Mix one part glycerine with two parts hot water in a vase, cut stems freshly and place immediately in the solution, and leave for one to three weeks until the glycerine has been drawn up through the plant and replaced the moisture in the cells. Eucalyptus, beech leaves, and oak leaves are exceptionally well suited to this method, producing preserved foliage in warm, autumnal tones that remains flexible and beautiful for years.

Displaying dried flowers

Dried flowers have different display requirements from fresh arrangements. They do not need water, but they do need protection from humidity, which can cause them to absorb moisture from the air and soften or mould. Avoid displaying them in bathrooms, near kitchen steam, or in rooms with high humidity. They also fade in direct sunlight: display in a bright but not sun-drenched position. A loose, natural arrangement in a heavy ceramic vase or woven basket suits dried flowers better than the tight, formal arrangements typical of fresh floristry.